# KANEMASA PHIL FW26: เครื่องถัก loopback 36 เกจ เครื่องเดียวในญี่ปุ่น

**By Onion** · 2026-09-15

## The Number in Front of the Name Is the Whole Story

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This shirt looks like a woven shirt. Dropped shoulders, falling into a shape. Then you raise an arm and it moves with you. No pull, no tight spot anywhere. Because it is not woven at all. It is knit.

Everything in Kanemasa Phil Fall/Winter 2026 is knit, including the pieces that look like anything but.

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Kanemasa Knitting opened in Wakayama in 1964 and grew into one of Japan's largest circular knit fabric producers, making cloth for other labels for decades. In 2021 it started a label of its own, with Kengo Baba as Creative Director. The machines are custom built and knit as fine as 36 to 46 gauge, far finer than an ordinary knit mill reaches.

That gauge is the number at the front of every product name. Higher means denser and finer. At 46G the knit starts reading as woven cloth. At 22G an older machine works coarser and gives a different surface entirely. The 36-gauge loopback machine behind the blouson and the pullover in this drop is the only one in Japan.

What comes out of it are things that should not exist. Jeans that were never woven, knitted instead from indigo yarn on a 32-gauge jacquard machine, fading with wear the way real denim does. A tee knit from 120-count silk run in parallel with high-crimp polyester on a decades-old machine, so the yarns stand up and the surface comes out clean on its own.

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> Kanemasa Phil is not making knit imitate woven cloth. It is pushing knit to the point where you stop choosing between shape and comfort. That is the centre of the brand.

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The brand states its concept as FUTURE CLASSIC / FUTURE VINTAGE. No logos, nothing announcing whose it is, only the cut and the hand of the cloth to go on. The first drop at Onion runs the full range, 22G through 46G.

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The clothes you have to touch to understand are usually the ones that stay with you longest.

**Tags:** Feature, FW26, Japan, Kanemasa Phil, Knitwear

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> Source: [onionbkk.com / Onion](https://onionbkk.com/blogs/blog/kanemasa-phil-fw26)